Snake tokens in Magic: The Gathering are generated by many cards, including but not limited to ye olde Snake Pit, Endless Swarm, and of course many of the Orochi cards. Much MTG Snake card art eschews long and slithery reptiles in favor of four-armed humanoid ophidians, but for this 3d token I decided to go all Rikki Tikki Tavi and model a cobra instead.
My original plan was to save myself some time by unrwapping the Ouroboros and giving her a cobra cowl, but the more I studied the anatomy connecting the hood to the head the more I realized that wasn’t going to work. After a few false starts I just ditched the original head and started fresh.
There are two versions of this snake in the archive. snake_resin was designed specifically for the mUVe1 resin-based printer and has an inconspicuous resin drain inside the 正 that lurks in the model’s base. It’ll still print on a filament printer though. snake_fdm patches the hole for use on filament deposition printers like the Replicator or Printrbot series.
The model in this photo is printed on a Replicator1 at .1mm layer height with black PLA (205°) and then spray-painted green. Usually I’m printing at .18mm, but I recently got my HBP bed leveled so nicely I thought I’d try printing at highter resolution. If you’ve got yourself a HBP, set it to 60°, folks. For great justice.
As always, you can grab this model for free from the Miniatures section of The Forge. Like the MTG rat pack, I could in theory pose this cobra a half-dozen ways, so #staytuned: there may be another MTG snake token or two slithering your way in the near future.
Despite my best efforts I couldn’t get a decent dualstrusion print of the Charnel Battle Flag, but I’ve included the STL files in the archive in case you want to have a go at it.
The fails were nice though.
This pose struck me while I was orbiting my camera. This guy will be ready in a couple of days. #staytuned.
You can watch his development in the Scrying Pool, over to the right. If you catch me working (usually early mornings EST) you can watch the screencaps accumulate in quasi-realtime.
“They made war on the Barrens, where wood is scarce and bones bloom eternal.”
–Qie Zi, The Art of Seej
New Seej Rule: A player fielding charnel battle flags may right one toppled flag for every three Barrow Bloxen in his fortification.
I designed the charnel battle flag to really push the FDM printability envelope. One can print this banner with support, but one shouldn’t have to. It’s a one piece print, unlike previous Seej battle flags.
The vertebrae at the bottom of the flag can be a little tricky, so make sure your build platform is quite level.
This particular flag is printed with Filabot’s recycled ABS filament and then dipped in black tempera paint to bring out the details and give it a little grime.
“With engines hewn from the bones of giants marched the Barrow Lords, shuffling and relentless and putrid.”
–qie Zi, The Art of Seej
The recent launch of the 2013 Seej Starter set got me thinking that we haven’t updated the list of playable Seej races since the Scarab Queens back in 2012. Sure, Men have been cranking out many different bloxen since that time, but a new race? Not until today.
I’m a firm believer that Everything’s Better With Skulls, so it was only a matter of time before I scratched this particular creative itch. This model is printed in black PLA and spray-painted white to bring out the texture of the constituent bones.
I’ll be releasing the Barrow Lords’ battle flag on Wednesday, so #staytuned for a forthcoming rules update.
Which reminds me, the Scarab Queens don’t have their own flag yet. I’ll have to get on that.
In the meantime, grab the model and start printing. You’ll need at least three of these to take advantage of the new rule. You have two days.
This and other models like it are in the Seej Fortifications section of The Forge. If you print one, let me know, and I’ll put it in the gallery.
The original Seej Starter Set gets an upgrade to take advantage of the advances made in home 3D printing over the last twelve months. Other Seej models are available for free download in The Forge.
The dawn of the hobbyist resin printer is upon us, so the set includes a one-piece flag and a fancy voronoi bloxen you can use to show off your printer’s capabilities.
The proliferation of inexpensive filament printers with smaller build platforms requires the advent of a smaller Seej engine, so I’ve added the Marshmallow Mangonel to the kit.
The classic catapult gets improvements inspired by community feedback, too. It’s all compatible with older prints, and is much, much more accurate.
Seej is an Open Source tabletop wargame designed to advance the state of 3d printing through competition and player-directed evolution. Rules for Seej are at www.s33j.net.
#staytuned, I’m releasing a new player race next week.
#stayreallytuned, I’ll be releasing a new Seej Starter Set in 2014.
Dean Piper over at mUVe 3d is doing some fascinating work with stereolithography printing lately. He’s built (and is selling) an resin printer with the stated goal of bringing open, inexpensive, high-resolution 3D printing to everyone.
Here’s one of his printed rats from my Rat Pack.
The laser artifacts on this print give the rat a little bit of fuzz, which compliments the model nicely.
You can read his blog post about it here, and breeze through a gallery of his prints, too.
It’s possible to get a mirror finish on your first layer when printing with ABS on kapton tape. Make sure your bed is level and give the kapton tape a quick wipe with ABSynthe; dampen a paper towel with acetone, rub it a few times across a failed print, and then wipe your kapton tape with the residue.
Look closely and you can see the little folds left in the print from bumps and bubbles in the kapton. I’ve given up trying to get my kapton to be perfectly smooth, because I have enough things in my life that give me agita. A few little wrinkles aren’t going to make your print fail if your bed’s level and you’ve got an ABSynthe wipe on your kapton.
If the bottom of your print looks like this, you might have a little trouble getting it off the build platform. I’ve had my best results giving the side of the print a little tap with a hammer while holding my build platform in place. It helps if the platform’s still warm from the print.
This print of a Masonry Bloxen uses Filabot’s recycled ABS at 250°C on a 110° heated bed, on a Replicator1.
I’ve been printing with my Replicator1 for just about a year and a half now. Here’s what my Penny Catapult prints looked like when I started out. (This print’s a veteran of many Seej battles.)
And here’s what my prints look like after countless hours of learning and frustration and failure and learning.
That cross-grain seam in the catapult’s side arm is probably caused by two pieces of blue painters’ tape butting up against one another. I do all my PLA printing on painters’ tape whether I’m using my Rep1 or Printrbot Simple.
One major difference between these two prints is that the top is ABS and the bottom is PLA– after a year of working with both I’d have to say I definitely prefer PLA. It smells better and heats up more quickly, which saves precious minutes of printer warming when repeatedly iterating through a design.
You can get a mirror-finish base with ABS, but apart from that I can’t see a reason to bother with it. Most of my stuff doesn’t wind up in high-stress situations so the added strength isn’t much of a draw for me.
As the last bloxen rolls off the print bed my adventure with Filabot’s recycled ABS concludes, and now it’s time to award XP.
Here’s what I was able to print with a single spool of ABS. All of these models are available from The Forge.
- 10 Seej Battle Flags, Pennon
- 11 Masonry Bloxen, at 10% infill
- 1 Seej Basic Battle Flag
- 4 (!) Penny Catapults, with upgrades
- 1 Penny Ballista
- 2 Amazing Nose Rings
- 1 Mystery Model. It’s in the photo, but won’t be officially public for a few days.
Here’s the scrap left over. Failed prints, brittle stretches of filaments, ramen, extruder scraps, et al. Par for the course for printing with ABS, as far as I’m concerned.
Note the catfill bloxen in the lower right hand corner of the image.
So the next thing to do is box up all the fail and ship it back to Filabot. I managed to cram everything in the original box, including the spool. It’s bulging a little but I don’t think the USPS will complain much.